The lone outlier here is the GTX 480 SLI.
Meanwhile the GTX 470 is in the middle of the pack, sharing space with most of the GTX 200 series.
Goodway ram 6 series#
The GTX 480 is below our poorly-idling Radeon 4000 series cards, but well above the 5000 series. With that said the GTX 200 series either does decently or poorly, depending on your point of view. Furthermore the 1200W PSU we switched to for this review has driven up our idle power load a bit, which serves to suppress some of the differences in idle power draw between cards. As we’ve already discussed, the GTX 480 and GTX 470 have an idle power consumption of 47W and 33W respectively, putting them out of the running for the least power hungry of the high-end cards. This won’t have any significant impact on the card, but if you’re like us your eyes will pop out of your head at least once when you see a GTX 480 hitting 98C on FurMark. Rather than reacting immediately, the GTX 400 series fans have a ramp-up delay of a few seconds when responding to high temperatures, meaning you’ll actually see those cards get hotter than our sustained temperatures. While we’re on the subject of temperatures, we should note that NVIDIA has changed the fan ramp-up behavior from the GTX 200 series. In fact it’s quite interesting that unlike FurMark there’s quite a larger spread among card temperatures here, which only makes the GTX 400 series stand out more. Even the dual-GPU cards don’t get quite this hot. This is where NVIDIA has to pay the piper on their die size – even the amazingly low idle clockspeed of 50MHz/core 101MHz/shader 67.5Mhz/RAM isn't enough to drop it any further.įor our load temperatures, we have gone ahead and added Crysis to our temperature testing so that we can see both the worst-case temperatures of FurMark and a more normal gameplay temperature.Īt this point the GTX 400 series is in a pretty exclusive club of hot cards – under Crysis the only other single-GPU card above 90C is the 3870, and the GTX 480 SLI is the hottest of any configuration we have tested. Farther down the chart is the GTX 480, which is in the over-50 club at 51C idle. Truth be told we were expecting something a bit better out of it given that its 33W idle is only a few watts over the 5870 and has a fairly large cooler to work with. It’s not until half-way down the chart that we find our first GTX 400 card, with the 470 at 46C. The top of the chart is occupied solely by AMD’s Radeon 5000 series, whose small die and low idle power usage let these cards idle at very cool temperatures. Starting with idle temperatures, we can quickly see some distinct events among our cards.
With a 500mm2+ die and a TDP over 200W, there’s a second story to be told about the power, temperature, and noise characteristics of the GTX 400 series. Thanks to everyone that chimed in.Temperature, Power, & Noise: Hot and Loud, but Not in the Good Wayįor all of the gaming and compute performance data we have seen so far, we’ve only seen half of the story. Same specs and same battery, so if you have the cash, I think it would be worth the upgrade. The Sears Platinum are actually quite a bargain compared to the Odessey which is sold for ~$280 each. I would liked to have bought the Sear Platinum as that battery was rated tops in CR and is actually made by Odessey for $180 each, but like i said I am on a tight budget right now. Now the engine cranks over very quickly!!
Goodway ram 6 free#
It rated second overall in Consumer reports testing and has a 3 year free replacement and 8 year pro-rated warranty, and 850 CCA. I finally broke down and bought two Autozone Gold series 65 DLG for $105 each. I took them to autozone and had them tested, one was bad and other was "probably bad". The oem batteries both had bulged sides, i'm sure not normal, but not sure what that means either. My truck did not want to start this past Thursday, so that's about 3 weeks since I reported the problem. Most times, i would just go ahead and get new batteries, especially since they are probably running on borrowed time, but right now, i gotta save where I can. So I think my problem was just dirty terminals, even though they sure didn't look dirty. It also read 14.2 - 14.5 volts, even with bright lights on, interior lights on, voltage never dropped below 14.2
Goodway ram 6 code#
Took another drive, this time with my code reader on. I sprayed some terminal lubricant on them. The passenger side had a bit of corrosion, but nothing you could see with the terminal on the post. It seemed that they did take a bit of charge because the engine turned right over. Came back home, turned it off, then back on. I then drove around to see if the batteries would take some charge. I also had two codes in, one said intermitant power to the ECM. I checked the voltage with a meter, just like y'all suggested. I had to get a jump to get the truck started. Short story: I think it was dirty battery terminals
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